It all started so simply in 2006 when Paul Bonacquisti lost his job as a radio DJ due to his station flipping formats. The logical step, of course, was to open a winery smack dab in the middle of Denver in the Sunnyside neighborhood.

Well, it wasn’t that logical in most people’s minds. See, at the time, urban wineries weren’t trendy nor popular, and consumers still thought a trip to a picturesque vineyard was in order for the full wine-drinking experience.

If five years in business tells you anything, Bonacquisti Wine Co. has changed that perception and hordes of consumers from downtown to the far reaches of Colorado continue to find out that good local wine can be made right here in the city.

As it celebrates its fifth anniversary on Oct. 13, it’s time to take a look back at Denver’s Urban Winery throughout the years.

2006: Falling Right In

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The tasting room doors opened on Friday, Oct. 13, 2006. Yes, Friday the 13th. The public enjoyed six wines, most of which are still in the tasting lineup today — including Bella Risa white, Vinny No Neck red, Delagua Red (now [d] Red), Colorado Syrah and a Colorado Cabernet.

While the winery opened in the fall, Paul was busy throughout the summer preparing the wines, setting up the business, and seeking out label art in the most random of places, the Highlands Street Fair. Fans of local artist Daniel Luna for years, he and wife Judi found themselves right next to Luna's booth where he had a painting that featured, of course, wine grapes. Serendipitously the relationship was made and the label series was created.

The year also included several other highlights, not the least of which was winemaker Paul falling into a stainless steel fermentation tank. While mashing down the cap of grape skins into the rest of the juice from a plank, he lost his balance and was dunked to his waist. That wine, an old vine Zin, later won a gold medal at the 2007 Colorado Mountain WineFest, the winery’s first ever gold.

In its first year, Bonacquisti produced about 1,000 cases of wine. Paul also begin a relentless effort to work with community nonprofits — with educational causes front and center — by hosting the winery’s first event, a fundraiser for Edison Elementary in November.

2007: World Expansion

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Beyond coming home with a gold at the year’s annual WineFest for the Zin that Paul fell in, Denver’s wine brand was introduced to the world, literally. With inclusion on the wine list at Timberline Steaks & Grill in the Denver International Airport, thousands of passengers from all over the world were exposed to Bonacquisti while waiting for their next flight.

The year also saw the first bins of Colorado Cabernet Franc delivered; the winery won its first medal (a bronze for the 2005 Syrah) at the Finger Lakes International Wine Competition in the spring; and it grew exponentially, leading to the hiring of two staff members to help with everything from winemaking to garbage duties and working the tasting rooms. "We hired some warm bodies," Paul recalls fondly. Jokes aside, Alex Perry and Deanna Tillion were two sommeliers who did way more than ever asked to help usher the winery's growth.

Lest we forget, the relationship with Daniel Luna, the label artist, paid off with the Bonacquisti Wine Co. taking a silver medal for its label series at the Denver International Wine Competition.

2008: The Great Zin Splatter

[caption id="attachment_913" align="alignleft" width="145" caption="The gold medal 2008 Cabernet Franc in its infant stage."][/caption]

While the big news at the winery was the overall production level — it topped 2,000 cases for the first time — one particular moment stands out. In fact, its date is emblazoned on the wall behind the tasting bar. “Zinfandel 10-9-08” is marked high on the wall, noting the day the Zinfandel splattered. The wine was in a bladder as part of the pressing process and a mistake by the assistant winemaker Alex (he left a mesh screen out) turned into an epic explosion that sent wine all over the place. To compound matters, the annual Grape Jam anniversary party was just two days away.

“(Alex) was covered; he took it point blank,” Paul says. “There was so much on the counter and the floor; I didn’t think we were going to be able to clean in up in time.”

It was a hectic week all around, aided in large part by the single biggest day of grape deliveries in the winery’s history. Eleven tons of fruit from California came on Oct. 7 from several different growers (the winery augments its production with grapes from out of state when Colorado growers can’t meet demands).

[caption id="attachment_932" align="alignright" width="210" caption="Grape stomp at the 2009 Sunnyside Musicfest"][/caption]

2009: The Stomp That Wasn’t

When the annual Sunnyside Music Festival rolled into the neighborhood in September, Paul had the grand plan to hold a community grape stomp. The idea being the neighborhood could help with the winemaking process for a Sunnyside wine blend. Well, the weather didn’t cooperate, and buckets of rain washed out the attempt — after Paul had dragged everything to the park and set up. “It’s never been attempted again,” Paul says.

Bonacquisti also brought home another gold medal at Colorado Mountain WineFest, for its 2007 Cabernet Franc, the first release of that variatel.

2010: Drinking with Friends

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If there was ever a reason to raise a glass, it came when Judi was named to the Denver Business Journal’s 40 under 40 list of power players in the community. It was a nod to her career in education and community involvement. Half owner of the winery (“She’s the not-so-silent partner,” Paul says.), Judi has been an integral part in every success the winery has achieved over the years.

Plus, 2010 brought Paul some friends when he convinced three other Colorado wineries — Garfield Estates Vineyard, Verso Cellars and Cottonwood Cellars — to open up satellite tasting rooms, forming Colorado Winery Row, officially anointed in March. This meant tons of parties hosted by all four brands, and the kick-off to the Uncorked series (a party the third Friday of every month). Hosea Rosenburg, the Top Chef season 5 winner, even brought his food truck by.

2011: Off the Tap

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With an effort to be more green, Paul had been researching keg systems throughout 2010, learning that restaurants setups used to pour fresh beer for decades also worked well for wine. Smaller, 11-liter tanks could keep 15 bottles of wine fresh for up to 60 days. So with tap in hand, Paul began selling his wine out of a keg in early 2011 at several leading Denver restaurants, including Linger and The Garlic Knot.

The winery also opened a satellite tasting room in the Highlands at, of all places, a restaurant. Spuntino, a hot Italian eatery at the corner of 32nd and Clay, uses a Bonacquisti tasting room permit to serve [d] Red, Bella Risa and several other wines alongside the tasty creations of chef Raul Salazar. Spuntino is also home to the monthly Colorado wine and food tasting club, Club Wino, co-founded by the Bonacquisti Wine Co. and Colorado Wino.

In terms of kudos, the accolades rolled in — two more golds at WineFest for the 2008 Cabernet Franc and 2010 Riesling, plus said Franc was named one of five wines to drink right now by the Denver Post.

2012 and Beyond

Bonacquisti plans to keep growing in the foodie haven of northwest Denver, making award-winning wines and keeping the Sunnyside neighborhood properly libated. He’s also trying to make jug wine cool again.

Celebrate 5 Years with Bonacquisti

Open House to celebrate five years in business, 1–5 p.m., Saturday, Oct. 15 at the winery, 4640 Pecos St., Denver. Live music, free snacks and tasting room specials.

Authentic New York pizza and Colorado aren’t exactly synonymous. The Centennial State can fire up a killer lamb dish, but its pizza quality generally leaves something to be desired.

[caption id="attachment_841" align="alignright" width="300" caption="The Garlic Knot: A New York pizzeria serving Bonacquisti wine off the tap!"][/caption]

Except when a true connoisseur with a New York restaurant pedigree comes to town to open up shop. That’s the case of Keith Arnold, a Queens native who moved west with his young family eight years ago to found Garlic Knot, an authentic Big Apple Italian joint that serves, you guessed it, authentic New York-style pizza.

For real.

“I am very much a food snob, and our pizza is exactly what it's supposed to be,” Arnold says. “I worked in a million Italian restaurants in New York, and all the recipes are ones we’ve used (there.)"

Okay, he might be exaggerating his resume just a bit when he talks about his New York past. But, despite being nearly a decade removed from the world’s pizza mecca, he can still ring off a dozen top pizza joints, by borough, to prove he does know what he’s talking about.

Which is part of the reason his co-investors sent him west to open the first Garlic Knot at Ken Caryl, a local chain that now boasts five Front Range locations. (It’s named after the tasting garlic bread bites traditionally made from scrap pizza dough).

Arnold jumped at the chance to be the instate owner/investor  (he runs the original in Ken Caryl and the Roxborough Littleton location), in large part to have his young family grow up in the wide-open spaces of Colorado instead of the congested concrete jungle of Queens.

It’s been a good life choice, but he hasn’t forgotten the simple lessons learned from growing up in Queens. And if you ask him, making good pie — in New York or Littleton — comes down to one thing: ingredients.

He shaves cheese fresh, finds the best products to produce the dough, and doesn’t skimp on meats and veggies.

Oh, he doesn’t buy the water thing (as in there’s something in the New York water that makes better crust). He’s even had a conversation with a Denver Water rep who says the minerality in the Mile High City is comparable to the Big Apple.

To see what he is talking about, follow Arnold's simple test for good pizza (at Garlic Knot or anywhere else): Order a slice of plain pizza (that’s what those on the Eastern seaboard call cheese).

“There’s nothing hiding the flavor. If you can’t make a good cheese pizza, you are just faking it,” Arnold says. “Just try the Neapolitan cheese pizza. That’s the benchmark."

We offer one other test: See how well it tastes with wine (we have a one-track mind at this Denver urban winery). As luck would have it, Garlic Knot serves Vinny No Neck, a a Sangiovese heavy blend, out of a keg (Ken Caryl and University Hills locations).

Arnold says Vinny pairs with all his simple Italian dishes, but life doesn’t get much better than a slice and a glass of Vinny.

“That wine goes excellent with any red sauce pizza,” Arnold says. “I tell people the story about Paul and about his grandfather’s Italian heritage. I pitch it to everybody because I like a local product … it’s like a New York experience where they bring an authentic food culture to a restaurant.”

Visit the Garlic Knot and order a glass of Vinny:

• Garlic Knot Ken Caryl, 10143 West Chatfield Ave., Littleton. 720-922-2060
• Garlic Knot University Hills, 2553 South Colorado Blvd. Denver. 720-542-3528

Keith Arnold may be a Colorado guy these days, but he still thinks fondly of his favorite pizzerias in New York. Of course, the best pizza comes from Queens, says the Queens native.

“I have one favorite pizzeria in each of the boroughs,” says Arnold, the founder of the Colorado-based Garlic Knot pizzeria chain. “But of course I think Queens has the best pizza.”

Arnold says he’s tasted his way through a few thousand pizzerias throughout the five boroughs, and all of his go-tos are hole in the wall joints.

Arnold’s favorite New York pizzas, by borough:

Queens: Aunt Bella’s, 4619 Marathon Parkway, Little Neck

Manhattan: Joe’s Pizza, 7 Carmine St., Greenwich Village

Brooklyn: Fascati’s Pizza, 80 Henry St., Brooklyn Heights

Bronx: Full Moon Pizzeria, 600 E. 187th St., Bronx

Staten Island: “I can’t help you … just go over the bridge to Brooklyn,” Arnold says.